Frequently Asked Questions
Choosing the right jewelry
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Great question!
Jewelry needs to be worn and loved but it is also good to know yourself and the lifestyle that your jewelry needs to fit into.
The very best stones for daily wear are sapphires, rubies and diamonds. These are what I recommend most highly for heirloom jewelry, such as wedding and engagement rings. That being said, most of the gems I use will do fine if you treat them well and don’t wear them all day, every day. The stones that you may want to avoid are gems that are porous (lapis, malachite), gems that are prone to cracking (emerald, rainbow moonstone, labradorite), and gems that scratch (jade, opal).
And of course, it is a good idea to think about what kind of jewelry you want to wear. Rings tend to get banged around a lot more during regular wear, so if you love stones that need a bit more consideration, wear them in earrings or pendants instead of rings.
If you have any questions about this, please contact me before ordering and I can advise you on the best options for your lifestyle.
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Diamonds are the hardest gem and those that I recommend most highly for rings that will be worn all day, every day, forever, such as engagement rings. Sapphires and rubies are the second hardest gems and also a great choice. But this doesn’t mean you are stuck with white, blue or red! Diamonds and sapphires both occur naturally in a true rainbow of colors. And there is a lot to play with in terms of different gem cuts and beautiful inclusions. Sourcing is a specialty of mine so if you have something in mind, reach out!
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Platinum is my first choice for wedding and engagement rings. It is tough and strong and will serve you well for a lifetime of wear. 18k white, rose and yellow gold are also excellent choices for most people.
Due to its softness, I do not generally recommend silver as it will wear more rapidly than other metals. I also do not recommend 22k or 24k gold for daily wear unless you have worn these metals before and are comfortable with their properties.
Metal and gems
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I work with most fine metals including sterling silver, 18k yellow, rose, and white as well as 22k and 24k golds, and platinum.
For white gold, I use almost exclusively 18k palladium white gold which is nickel free and hypoallergenic.
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Precious metals are valuable and infinitely recyclable, so they are never, ever thrown away. Instead they are melted down and refined to make pure, new material for jewelry. All the metal that I use (with the exception of some chains) has been recycled in this manner. It is more expensive and more difficult to source, but it means that the metal was already part of the supply chain and does not contribute to environmental and humanitarian issues involved in new mining.
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All of the fine, brilliant cut diamonds that I use are exclusively recycled, antique, or of Canadian origin. Recycled and antique stones are the most ethical diamonds you can buy as they have been removed from existing jewelry and do not contribute to current environmental and humanitarian issues involved in new mining. Canadian diamonds are newly mined stones but must comply with the most stringent diamond mining regulations in the world.
Recycled diamonds have been graded for color and quality and recut to modern standards. Antique diamonds are as originally cut. Both have been reclaimed from existing jewelry and reintroduced into the supply chain.
All icy or salt and pepper diamonds that I use are Kimberly Process and comply with industry standards to ensure they are not sourced from conflict zones. While this is the industry standard for all newly mined diamonds, the scope of oversight is specific to conflict zones and does not address broader questions of ethics. This is a jewelry industry failure that I am working to address.
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My stones come from all over the world. Some are from known origin, some are not. Where the origin is known, these stones comply with the highest standards of ethical, humanitarian, and environmental standards.
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Oxidation is the natural darkening of sterling silver when exposed to oxygen. In the jewelry studio, this process is sped up by exposing sterling to sulphur. If you have ever worn your silver jewelry to a hot spring and had it all turn black, this is the same but darker and more durable.
Oxidized silver will change with age according to environmental factors, amount of wear, and body chemistry. This change is part of the allure for aficionados, much like fade patterns on selvedge denim. But it isn’t for everyone. Please read about caring for oxidized silver in the “caring for your jewelry” section.
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While possible, allergies to sterling silver are extremely rare. In most cases, the assumption of a silver allergy arises from cheap jewelry that has been sold as “silver” but is in fact a base metal, possibly plated with genuine silver. This low quality jewelry very often causes severe allergy that in almost every instance does not occur with genuine sterling silver.
I work in exclusively sterling silver and in my experience all customers who considered themselves sensitive to silver have had no issues wearing my jewelry.
If you have reacted to a “silver” piece of jewelry in the past, always be sure that look for a 925 hallmark on your jewelry, an indication that it is indeed sterling silver and not just jewelry of a silver color.
Of course, if silver doesn’t work for you, there are lots of options in my jewelry including platinum and gold!
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Yes! None of my metals contain nickel but please let me know that you have an allergy when you order. My 18k white gold, the most notorious creator of allergies, is made with palladium but some cases I will make extra certain that posts and chains contain no nickel.
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Never.
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Bronze is an alloy of copper and tin with a pale golden color. I recommend bronze for occasional rather than daily wear as the high copper content is likely to cause oxidation, especially when exposed to moisture or sweat, and can leave oxidation marks on the skin. It is best stored in a plastic bag to keep it from oxidizing when not being worn. This may not be the best choice for people with metal allergies.
Custom design
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Oh, yes! I work with gem sources from all over the world and have years of experience sourcing the perfect stones for clients. Whether it is a gem in a certain size or shape, a particular color, a certain rarity, or just something personally meaningful like a gem from your home state, I can find something that will suite you exactly.
Contact me or schedule a virtual appointment to discuss the custom project.
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Yes! Making something new with old gems is a great way to bring heirlooms into the present moment. I am happy to design with your stones, however, not all stones are well suited to a makeover. The best way to start a conversation about your design is to email a photo of the stones you are hoping to reuse or schedule an appointment for a virtual design consultation.
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When it comes to custom design, regretfully, after many many years, this is no longer something that I do. Not all metal alloys are suited to reworking and unfortunately this is not always apparent until flaws occur after a custom piece is finished. For this reason, I only use my recycled metal alloys that behave predictably rather than have people understandably unhappy from issues with their custom jewelry.
However! There are still ways to use your metal! See below.
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Absolutely! There are ways to use the unpredictability of unknown metal alloys as a feature rather than a defect. These designs are by their nature experimental and unpredictable but absolutely something that I do.
Contact me or schedule a virtual appointment to discuss the custom project.
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Custom design always starts with a consultation, either in the studio or by booking a virtual consultation. We discuss what you want to have made, your budget, metal, stones, timeline, etc. Once the design has been finalized and a 50% deposit is paid, I will carve a custom wax and cast your custom piece in the metal of your choice.
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Yes. Beautiful hand-engraving can be added to your new jewelry. If you would like a special message or romantic dates engraved on your jewelry, contact me directly for possibilities and prices before purchase.
Special orders, requests, repairs
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Yes!
One-of-a-kind jewelry is composed around stones that are unique in shape, color, cut, and inclusions. Finding gems like this to remake a design is difficult to impossible. But given enough time and patience, it is sometimes possible to make something similar or even very close in look to the original. You can see an example of a remake that worked out beautifully in my journal post here.
For made-to-order, it is simply impossible to add all options to the website. Most of these pieces can be made in any precious metal: platinum, palladium, 18k rose, yellow, or white gold, and yellow gold in 22k and 24k.
Contact me or schedule a virtual appointment to discuss the custom project.
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Things happen and most harm to jewelry can be repaired. The easiest thing to do is to send a photo of the damage so that I can give you an idea of how much it will cost and how long it will take.
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Yes! Most of my jewelry can be given a high-polish finish, if that’s your preference. Please contact me before ordering.
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Sure! Pricing depends on the type of ring, metal, and how much it needs to be resized. Please contact me to arrange shipment to the studio.
During resizing your ring will get the full spa treatment with cleaning, refinishing and making sure that all stone settings are secure.
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One-of-a-kind earrings that were made as a matched pair cannot be separated.
But for made-to-order earrings, of course you can!
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Nope.
Gifts and surprises
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If your gifting date falls after the return window, please contact me before ordering to discuss possibilities. I can usually arrange an extension for exchange only if informed before the order. Please refer to the ordering and returns section for return information.
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My advice is always to order the ring in the original size and do the resizing later, if necessary. The first resize is complimentary, so this ensures that the ring will only need to be resized once and you won’t be charged for multiple resizing. Also, if the gift is not exactly what the recipient wants, the unsized ring can still be exchanged for something else. You will pay the shipping to and from the studio but you’ll be sure the ring will be the perfect fit, and save on multiple resizing.
If the ring must be a surprise and also needs to be as close to the correct size as possible, such as for a surprise proposal, I can usually guess with some accuracy from a photo.
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Resized rings cannot be returned. Just like having a pair of jeans hemmed, a resized ring is no longer as original and cannot be returned. My advice is always to order the ring in the original size and send it back for resizing once you know they love it.
If the recipient does not love the gift, an unsized ring can be exchanged.
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Please contact me before ordering. Shipping times can fluctuate and the best way to get your jewelry in time for a special date is for me to know ahead of time.
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I do! You can order digital gift cards here.
After purchase, you will receive an email confirmation with a gift code which can be used on my website. If you would like a sexier way to present your gift, contact me after purchase and I will email you a beautiful gift card graphic that you can print at home.
Resizing
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Yes! One-of-a-kind rings can usually be safely resized within two sizes up or down. Each product will only show this size range available. If your required size is not shown please contact me to enquire if the ring you want can be safely resized beyond this range.
For made-to-order rings, most can be made in any size. But there are only so many lines for variations on the website. Please contact me and I will add the size you require.
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Resizing usually takes one to two weeks from the time of order. Some sizing is more complicated and if I expect it to take longer, I will contact you.
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The first resizing is complimentary and I will honor this for one month after purchase. If the ring you purchased doesn’t fit just, send it back to me and I will resize it for you.
Future resizing is priced based on the ring and will vary depending on the metal, amount of size change, and whether it is being sized up or down.
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Always order rings in your actual size. I make adjustments to account for the width of the ring to ensure that each style will fit best in your actual size.
And if you want to be extra certain that I am sizing from a metric that will be the most accurate, consider ordering a set of finger sizers. This will give me the most accurate base to work from.
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If you can’t visit the studio to be sized in person, order a set of finger sizers! The best way to ensure that your new ring fits perfectly is for us to use the same sizing language. It is common for finger sizers to measure a different size depending on the quality of manufacture, brand, etc. If you are unsure about your size or just want to be sure of the best possible fit, using the same sizers that I do will give me the best measure of your true size.
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Contact me and I will advise you on the most accurate size equivalent in US sizing.
Ordering, shipping, delivery & returns
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Sometimes you need to try on jewelry to fall in love with it!
You may return your jewelry by contacting me within 7 days from the delivery date. You will receive return instructions by email. You may ship the return using the service you prefer or an insured return shipping label can be provided for $35.
Returns must arrive back to the studio within 15 days of the delivery date. All jewelry sent back for return must be in unworn, unaltered, and original condition and returned in original packaging. Any jewelry that appears worn or damaged will not be eligible for return.
Custom jewelry as well as jewelry that has been altered or resized at the request of the customer are final sale and are not eligible for return.
Once your return is received and inspected, a refund will be issued to your original payment method, minus shipping charges (if applicable), and you will receive an email confirming that your refund has processed. Please note that while refunds are issued promptly, it can take up to 14 days for your bank to credit your account.
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Purchases made at the Berkeley or Seattle studios or at an event may be exchanged for credit only and must be returned to the studio within 15 days of purchase. Please contact me for return instructions. You may ship the return using the service you prefer or an insured return shipping label can be provided for $35.
Your exchange will be issued either as an online gift card.
All jewelry sent back for exchange must be in unworn, unaltered, and original condition and returned in original packaging. Any jewelry that appears worn or damaged will not be eligible for exchange.
Custom jewelry as well as jewelry that have been altered or resized at the request of the customer are final sale and are not eligible for exchange.
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My website is fully shopping ready and everything listed is currently available. You can order as you like.
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Select “premium” if you are giving a gift or want a box or pouch that can be reused. Depending on the jewelry ordered, this will be a box or pouch made from fabric, paper, or wood.
If you prefer zero waste, select “tissue paper” and your jewelry will be carefully wrapped in 100% recyclable materials.
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Ready-to-ship jewelry will be shipped within five days.
Made-to-order jewelry will be shipped within the timeframe noted on the product page.
Please note that if you request a resize on a one-of-a-kind ring, this can add up to two weeks before your ring ships.
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Most jewelry ships by UPS 2-business day shipping. Signature is always required to ensure that your jewelry arrives in your hands safely. There are no exceptions, so if being home to sign for the package may be an issue, consider shipping to your business address or to a local UPS store.
Jewelry under $500 may ship by USPS. Signature is still required and delivery takes up to five days.
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Yes! Contact me at the time of order to let me know you have a shipping preference.
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UPS will make three attempts to deliver. If no one is able to sign for it, the package will be taken to the local UPS shipping hub where it can be picked up in person. If it is not picked up, the package will be returned to me. Returned jewelry will automatically be refunded, less the price of shipping.
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Unfortunately, jewelry has different insurance rules than other items. Once your package ships, no changes can be made to the delivery address.
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Returns are processed within 1 day of jewelry being received back and inspected. You will receive a refund notification by email as soon as your return is processed. Please note that while refunds are issued promptly, it can take up to 14 days for your bank to credit your account.
International orders
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All over the world!
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My preferred shipper is FedEx for international orders and is $115. It generally takes 7-10 days for a package to clear customs and arrive at its destination. Signature is always required to ensure that your jewelry arrives in your hands safely.
If you are ordering jewelry of lower value, I am happy to ship by post. It takes longer but is much less expensive. Please contact me before ordering.
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Any customs fees are determined by the local customs office and must be paid by the customer. This depends on your country but in most cases you can assume that customs will charge a fee roughly equivalent to the amount of taxes that would be charged if you purchased something of similar value locally. If fees occur, you will be contacted by the shipping company for payment before delivery.
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I never want someone to feel discouraged from ordering internationally. You may return your new jewelry if it is shipped back within 5 days of delivery. Customer is responsible for return shipping charges and it is highly recommended to ship insured.
All jewelry sent back for return must be in unworn, unaltered, and original condition and returned in original packaging. Custom jewelry as well as jewelry that has been altered or resized at the request of the customer are final sale and are not eligible for return.
Once your return is received and inspected, a refund will be issued to your original payment method, minus shipping charges (if applicable), and you will receive an email confirming that your refund has processed. Please note that while refunds are issued promptly, it can take up to 14 days for your bank to credit your account.
Caring for your jewelry
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Love your jewelry! Wear it often but treat it kindly. Fine jewelry should be treated as art-for-the-body and will age gracefully with proper care. The simplest and best practice daily routine for jewelry is to put it on after you apply makeup, perfume, lotions, or sunscreen, and take it off before you swim, exercise, cook, clean, or garden.
It is good to remember that even the hardest stones can abrade or crack if they are mistreated. If you want to keep metals and stones happy for a long time it is always a good idea to avoid things which are most likely to harm the materials. This includes avoiding chemicals found in cleaning products, pools, and hot tubs, or abrasives like soil, sand, and mineral makeups. And to protect your body as much as your jewelry, always take your jewelry off before exercising or working with machinery. Fingers get smaller when they are cold so always remove rings before swimming.
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No. No. No. No.
You can, of course, but I don’t recommend it and it will not do your jewelry any favors.
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Okay, here’s my list:
-Take off your jewelry around any chemicals. This includes household cleaning products, pool and hot tubs.
-Take off rings when swimming in oceans and rivers. Changes in temperature shrink fingers and this is a great way to lose your jewelry.
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Jewelry is happiest when you wear it! Wearing your jewelry is the most effective way to keep it from tarnishing. But if tarnish occurs, most jewelry can be cleaned gently with soap and warm water or with a jewelry polishing cloth. You can also send it back to me for a clean up.
The easiest magic trick is to simply soak it overnight in a solution of warm water with a few tablespoons of baking soda. This is particularly useful for chains that are hard to clean with a polishing cloth and, unlike chemical silver cleaners, it is safe for the environment. While this is safe for most stones, a polishing cloth is safer for soft or porous stones, or designs that are fully enclosed behind the stone.
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Small question, big answer. Oxidizing is a process of speeding up the natural interaction of silver with the environment. It is essentially internationally tarnishing silver for aesthetics. Since oxidized silver only affects the surface of the metal it is very likely to change over time. However, this depends on a few factors including what type of jewelry it is, how often you wear it and also personal body chemistry. For instance, a ring that you wear everyday will wear away fairly rapidly and will start to look more antiqued with the constant abrasion from your fingers, handwashing, etc. Earrings, which are unlikely to encounter water or be constantly fondled and will be worn less often will likely stay very dark for a very long time, if not forever.
I consider oxidized jewelry to be for occasional wear rather than every day, especially in the case of rings. It is best to take oxidized rings off before washing your hands and never use cleaners or polishing clothes as they will damage the surface.
Jewelry can always be re-oxidized by sending it back to the studio. If you are worried about whether you will like your new jewelry in a less dark form, reach out and we can talk about your lifestyle.